Owners of Emma’s BBQ Tess and Miceala Thomas prepare their signature BBQ sides. (Photo courtesy of Miceala Thomas)

By Mead Gill - #SupportBlackBusiness

For grandmother and granddaughter Tess and Miceala Thomas, their livelihood is more than a barbeque joint; it’s an homage to the generations that came before them.

With nearly 150-year-old recipes concocted by Tess’ late mother Emma Thomas, the two women have led the iconic Emma’s BBQ with love and laughter for eight years in Columbia City. Through the unrelenting challenges of small business ownership in Seattle, their familial values and devotion to their community stay front of mind.

A Generational Commitment to Momma Emma

More than just the restaurant’s namesake, Momma Emma lives on through Tess, Miceala, and their dedication to bringing Emma’s wisdom and work ethic to the community. “The quality and the integrity of this product from my mother is what matters to me the most,” Tess said.

In the early 1940s, Momma Emma followed her husband from the Old South to Washington State where they raised 10 kids. She couldn’t read or write but communicated her values by teaching her children original recipes and life lessons with the intention to always prioritize the needs of others. These same values represent the foundation of Emma’s BBQ and the mindset that Miceala and Tess carry with them as business owners.

Tess Thomas (left) sits with her late mother Emma (right). (Photo courtesy of Miceala Thomas)

An Acclaimed Menu of Barbeque Classics

With multiple Seattle Times People’s Choice Awards under their belt, Emma’s BBQ is best known for their beef brisket and pork ribs, dubbed by Miceala as “the king and queen.”

“The smoking process…is something that takes so much time and love,” Miceala said, reflecting on her experience learning the recipes as a child. Her personal favorite, the beef brisket, is one of many recipes passed down by doing instead of telling. While Miceala’s sisters and cousins would be off playing at family gatherings, she’d be in the kitchen with Tess, mastering the dishes served at the restaurant today.

At the brick-and-mortar, Emma’s sells everything from brisket to hotlinks to holiday specials like smoked turkey, accompanied with classic barbeque sides. Their pulled pork sandwich is a renowned staple for the restaurant, earning them accolades from major publications across the city and establishing them as a culinary force to be reckoned with.

The Magic of Tess Thomas

At 76 years old, Tess is ingrained in the historic fabric of Seattle. She was a Seattle-based blues singer who opened for Tina Turner, James Brown, and B.B. King, a foster parent of 30 years, and radiant personality in the community. Her legacy and attitude shines through her family and the restaurant, despite the financial and emotional stress of running a restaurant in Seattle.

Tess credited her persistence to help those in need to Momma Emma, whose spirit runs rampant in her daughter and the food she cooks. “[My mother] said before her passing, ‘All you have to do is make sure you keep these recipes like I've given them to you. If you do that, you are going to be okay,’” she said.

A product of her mother, Tess upholds the same sentiments regardless of the challenges she faces as a restaurant owner. Miceala observed these characteristics in her grandma with pride. “My grandma will feed you if you are hungry. Even if you don't have [money], she's going to make sure that you eat, especially if she knows that you're down on your luck,” Miceala said.

“One day it’s ham and bacon, the next day, ain't nothing shakin’.” - Tess Thomas (Photo courtesy of Miceala Thomas)

Leaving Lumen Field Unexpectedly

After building a reputation for mouth-watering brisket, ribs, and sandwiches, Emma’s landed two additional locations in Lumen Field in 2021. But after new FDA regulations requiring Lumen Field restaurants to cook all food on the premises, Emma’s lost their locations at the stadium.

Miceala expressed confusion with the decision due to Emma’s success at Lumen Field, explaining that the business continued to outperform other subcontractors despite a lack of event attendance during Covid. Additionally, Emma’s had already invested in expensive new equipment in preparation for the preliminary 2025 FIFA Club World Cup this summer and the 2026 World Cup, both hosted at Lumen.

“In my mind, the World Cup represented seven Super Bowls for us, which would have completely changed our financial situation,” Miceala said. Relying in large part on the Lumen Field foot traffic, Emma’s is now transitioning their business model solely to the brick-and-mortar location in Columbia City.

“One finger can do no damage, but together we got a whole fist.” - Miceala Thomas (Photo courtesy of Miceala Thomas)

Tackling Obstacles with Positivity and Determination

Despite the abrupt switch in customer base, Tess and Miceala are overcoming the obstacles and searching for a silver lining. “One day it’s ham and bacon, the next day, ain't nothing shakin’,” Tess said. “Sometimes it seems like I have a dark day and I say, ‘We don't worry too much about the dark day. Tomorrow's going to come and it's going to be all right.’”

When focusing their time and energy on the Lumen Field locations, the owners only had the capacity to open the Columbia City storefront once a month. Now that the storefront is their sole location, they see an opportunity to reconnect with the South End and serve the community in need. “We may not be in the best position ourselves, but we're still in a position to help,” Miceala said.

Channeling Time and Energy Back to Columbia City

For now, Miceala and Tess are prioritizing their homely streetcorner in Columbia City and the vibrant South End community that surrounds it. As they work to increase their foothold on the catering market and focus on special events and local partnerships, their intense dedication to the community remains steadfast. They operate Emma’s with a strong understanding of the power of community partnerships in uplifting each other through the ups and downs of business.

“One finger can do no damage, but together we got a whole fist,” Miceala said.

Emma’s BBQ

5303 Rainer Avenue S

Seattle, WA 98118

Phone: (206) 413-1523

Facebook: Emma’s BBQ

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